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Food & Drink • A Taste of Vermont’s Vibrant Food Scene | Summer 2014

Written by Melissa Pasanen on . Posted in Taste of the Landscape

Editor’s note: In the Summer 2014 issue we introduced a new department, Food & Drink. Here’s a sample of some of the stories included in that section.

Spurred by an influx of new restaurants, downtown Winooski bustles on a summer evening. Photo by Gary Hall.

Spurred by an influx of new restaurants, downtown Winooski bustles on a summer evening. Photo by Gary Hall.

Renaissance is served
In Winooski, nouveau food and nightlife spark a revival
Swing by Misery Loves Co. in downtown Winooski, and you’re likely to run into any number of in-the-know foodies, perhaps grabbing an expertly crafted espresso and an ethereal lemon curd donut. Later in the day, a similar crowd gathers across the traffic circle in the Scandinavian-style space at Mule Bar to savor hard-to-find Flemish sour ales paired with excellent bar food, like juicy burgers and crisp fries. And these are just two emerging players on the buzzing Winooski food and drink scene. “Over the last couple of years,” says chef-turned- butcher Frank Pace,“it’s just blown up.”

With its striking historic mill buildings and dramatic falls, Burlington’s gritty neighbor was long known for such solid destinations as Tiny Thai, Sneakers Bistro and music venue Monkey House.
 But after years of noisy 
and construction-tangled redevelopment, momentum seems finally to be rippling out from the central rotary to support more restaurants, an elegant wine bar (oak45), a warm, Wi-Fi- and espresso- fueled café (The Block Gallery and Coffeehouse), and multiple places to enjoy a well-made cocktail or an aromatic bowl of Vietnamese pho. There are even plans to reopen the long-empty restaurant in the Champlain Mill, home to technology company MyWebGrocer.

On warm summer days around the rotary, sidewalk tables bloom with umbrellas and the Sunday morning farmers market offers a bounty of fresh vegetables, meats, baked goods and ethnic foods made by the community’s diverse residents. A little further from the city’s heart,

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The Arts | Summer 2014

Written by Bill Anderson on . Posted in The Arts

The Deadly Genetlemen.

The Deadly Gentlemen play in Huntington on Aug. 9, 2014.

May 30–June 8

Now in his late 70s, Ron Carter has appeared on more than 2,000 jazz recordings — a staggering figure if you pause to think about it — but his reputation is built on quality, not quantity. “Among the greatest accompanists of all time,” wrote music biographer Ron Wynn, “the epitome of class and elegance … close to being the bass equivalent of a Duke Ellington.” Carter appears on a double bill with venerable saxman Benny Golson, and the festival, as always, astutely covers the rest of the spectrum, from safe-and-sound to fearlessly progressive. Among many highlights, look for legendary singer Tony Bennett, violin star Regina Carter, soundscape trio Dawn of Midi, a Belizbeha reunion, and Linda Oh’s Sun Pictures Quartet. For total immersion, consider the festival’s many meet-the-artist sessions, art exhibits, street concerts and nightclub spinoffs.

Spring/Summer 2014

Impressionist works by Monet, Manet, Degas and other French masters will be on view June 14 through Sept. 1 in “In a New Light,” an exhibit drawn from the Shelburne Museum’s collection as well as loans from private sources and the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C. In other new exhibits, both showing May 11 to Oct. 31, “Nancy Crow, Seeking Beauty: Riffs on Repetition” presents works by the renowned contemporary quilter; and “Trailblazers: Horse-Powered Vehicles” looks at parallels between 19th-century transportation and modern automotive culture.

Vermont Center for Photography
June 6–29

Born in Detroit in 1947, Roger Katz moved in the ’60s to Brattleboro to attend Marlboro College, and he never left, making the town his home, owning various photography shops or studios, and becoming an unassuming patron of the photographic arts in the community. Katz died of cancer in 2013, and though he never had an exhibit of his work during his lifetime, the Vermont Center for Photography is honoring their friend with a display of more than 100 vintage gelatin silver prints, which cover a span of time from the 1970s through 2012. The Center says Katz “had a distinct ability to capture portraits on the street. His humble and quiet approach to his surroundings lent itself perfectly
to acting as a ‘fly on the wall’ as life played out in front of him.”

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Recipe: Lamb and Eggplant Moussaka

Written by Vermont Life on . Posted in Recipes, Taste of the Landscape

Lamb and Eggplant Moussaka
Serves 6
Ariel’s farm-to-table menu uses a palette of Vermont ingredients to create globally influenced recipes like this moussaka. Lee Duberman also makes this dish for vegetarians with 1 ½ pounds of button mushrooms in place of the lamb. Chop or pulse mushrooms coarsely in a food processor and make sure to cook the mushrooms until they release their liquid and it cooks away before adding the wine.
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  1. 1 large (about 1 ½ pounds) eggplant
  2. 5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
  3. Coarse salt
  4. 1 small onion, finely chopped
  5. 2 medium cloves garlic, minced
  6. 1 pound ground lamb
  7. ½ cup fruity red wine
  8. 5 tablespoons tomato paste
  9. 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  10. ½ teaspoon dried oregano or 1 teaspoon fresh, minced leaves
  11. Freshly ground black pepper
  12. 4 tablespoons butter
  13. 1/3 cup flour
  14. 1 cup milk
  15. 1 large egg
  16. ¾ cup ricotta
  17. ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan
  18. ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees and lightly oil a medium (2-quart) baking dish. Peel and cut eggplant lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices. Coat a rimmed baking sheet or shallow roasting pan with 2 tablespoons olive oil and arrange eggplant slices in one layer. Brush tops with 2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle lightly with coarse salt. Bake about 20 to 25 minutes until soft and golden at edges. Remove from oven, cool slightly and line bottom of baking dish with eggplant, overlapping as necessary.
  2. While eggplant is baking, heat remaining tablespoon olive oil in a large sauté pan or skillet set over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, another minute until garlic is fragant. Add lamb and cook, stirring, until browned, about 7 to 9 minutes. Pour off as much fat as possible from pan and return to medium heat. Stir in wine, tomato paste, cinnamon, oregano, ½ teaspoon coarse salt and several grinds of pepper. Cook, stirring, about 3 to 5 minutes until wine has been absorbed. Adjust seasoning to taste. Spread meat mixture evenly over eggplant.
  3. Melt butter in medium saucepan set over medium heat. Whisk in flour and cook, whisking constantly, until mixture is light tan, about 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk milk in slowly until mixture is smooth. Increase heat to medium-high and bring mixture to a boil, whisking constantly. (The mixture is thicker than a standard white sauce). Remove pan from heat. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg, ricotta, Parmesan and nutmeg. Slowly whisk white sauce into egg mixture until smooth. Taste and add salt as needed. Pour evenly over meat and smooth top.
  4. Bake moussaka for 25 to 30 minutes, or until top is golden with some darker brown spots and any filling is bubbling. Allow to rest for 20 minutes before serving.
  1. Moussaka may be made a day ahead and refrigerated, covered, unbaked, or wrapped well and frozen. If baking from the fridge, add about 20 minutes and leave foil on for first 25 minutes. If baking from frozen, add about an hour with foil on and then finish baking as directed above.
  2. This recipe appeared in the Summer 2014 edition of Vermont Life. Photo by Andrew Wellman.
Adapted from Chef and co-owner Lee Duberman, Ariel's Restaurant, Brookfield
Adapted from Chef and co-owner Lee Duberman, Ariel's Restaurant, Brookfield
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